If you've ever searched for leather goods, you've certainly come across two terms that seem similar but are profoundly different: vegetable-tanned leather and vegan leather. The confusion between the two is common — and some manufacturers take advantage of it to mislead consumers. In this article, we explain the difference clearly and honestly.
What is vegetable-tanned leather?
Vegetable-tanned leather is genuinely animal leather — obtained from bovine hide — but whose tanning process uses natural extracts of plant origin, such as oak bark, chestnut, or mimosa, instead of chemicals like chromium.
It is the oldest method of tanning leather, used for thousands of years. Today, only 10% of leather produced worldwide is vegetable-tanned — making it a rare, premium, and sustainable material.
Its unique characteristics include:
- Develops a natural and unique patina with use
- Is breathable and absorbs natural oils
- Lasts decades when properly cared for
- Is biodegradable at the end of its life
What is vegan leather?
Vegan leather — also called synthetic leather, eco-leather, or faux leather — is not leather. It is a plastic material, typically made from polyurethane (PU) or PVC, manufactured from petroleum derivatives.
The name "vegan leather" was created for marketing purposes. Although it does not use animal skin, it is a synthetic material with a significant environmental impact: it does not biodegrade, releases microplastics, and has a much shorter lifespan than genuine leather.
Some versions of vegan leather are made from organic materials such as pineapple, apple, or mushrooms — but even in these cases, the percentage of organic material rarely exceeds 10%, with the remainder being polyurethane.
An honest comparison
| Vegetable-Tanned Leather | Vegan Leather (PU/PVC) | |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Animal (natural tanning) | Petrochemical |
| Durability | Decades | 2 to 5 years |
| Ageing | Improves with time (patina) | Peels and deteriorates |
| Sustainability | High (biodegradable) | Low (plastic) |
| Breathability | Yes | No |
| Price | Higher, but lasts longer | Cheaper, but needs replacing more often |
Why does this confusion exist?
The term "vegan leather" sounds ecological and sustainable — which is why it is used strategically in marketing. Many consumers associate "vegan" with environmentally responsible, and brands capitalise on this perception.
But the reality is that a plastic bag has a lower environmental impact per year of use than most vegan leather products.
At Pinto Leathercraft, we are transparent
We work exclusively with vegetable-tanned leather from responsible tanneries. We choose this material not only for its quality and durability, but also because we believe in transparency with our customers.
When you purchase a piece from Pinto Leathercraft, you know exactly what you are getting: genuine leather, tanned naturally, made by hand in Portugal.
Have questions about the materials we use? Feel free to get in touch — we're happy to answer.